All about Knots
- onepaintingaday
- Oct 18
- 3 min read
Updated: Oct 25

Circling back to the mobile this week to finalize the piece to be "gallery ready." I've made the frame more robust, adding elements for structural stability, and to prevent racking. Once I felt like the framing challenges were reaching resolution, I shifted my attention to the fishing line, and establishing adjustable tension within the frame. The advantage of this type of fishing line is that it has a very thin visual profile while other types of line or cable or rods would be much more visually dominant. Further, there's little friction so the magnets rotate freely with the tiles. The disadvantage is that it is very slippery and doesn't behave like other types of fishing line- so crimping objects in place, and some simple knots aren't very stable.
After many videos, tutorials, and testing out techniques, I narrowed the knot library down to seven possible types to test out. But in the end only two would work, for very different functions.

The first of these, the Palomar knot, is advertised for attaching a lure to the end of a fishing line. It involves making a loop with a double bit of string and then opening up the end of the loop to go around the object, prior to pulling the knot tight. I tried this several times, before getting the hang of it. The first attempts resulted in several mangled messes of chord. Mostly because (I think) that I was doubling through the button holes too many times to allow for proper tightening of the knot once it was set. The Palomar knot works well with the top button and centering the line on the center of the button between the holes. It also keeps the knot from slipping over time.

The second knot, was a surprise. Searching for an adjustable knot, I tried several famous knots like the Double Overhead Stopper Knot, the Slip Knot, the Bowline Knot, and the Taut Line Hitch. In the end, the simplest knot of them all was the solution, the Inline stopper knot. The inline stopper knot relies on a second piece of string entirely that is tied to the mainline. It can be moved up and down the line to create a stopper. I used it to push the bottom button in place. What's great about this solution is that when I go to move the frame, I can take the tension off the lines during transit and retighten when I set this up for final display.



The final steps included making marks in pencil on the frame for aligning the string, sanding down edges removing any stickers, labeling the tiles and placing them within the frame.





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